Day Thirty-Eight

4:30 a.m. -- Our ride picked us up.

6:30 a.m. -- Our train departed from the Delhi station.

8:30 a.m. -- We arrived at the Agra train station and picked up our guide.

9:30 a.m. -- Taj Mahal. WOW. A Mughal emperor built this marble marvel as a mausoleum commemorating his third wife. He intended to build a black Taj across the river as his own mausoleum, but his power hungry son wanted to use finances elsewhere and halted construction by placing his father under house arrest. Thus, the tomb of this Mughal emperor now sits next to his beloved third wife and is the only component disrupting the Taj Mahal's perfect symmetry.

11 a.m. -- Agra Fort. The walled city where the Mughal emperor who built the Taj lived freely with his family and then later under house arrest with tremendous views of the Taj from his windows.

1 p.m. -- Lunch.

3:30 p.m. -- Fatehpur Sikri. This beautiful complex housed an emperor and his three wives, one Hindu, one Christian, and one Muslim. While there, we danced in the rain.

6:30 p.m. -- Dinner.

8:45 p.m. -- Our train left the Agra station.

12 a.m. -- We arrived home safe and sleepy from a full day.

Day Thirty-Seven

We visited Project Rescue's Girls Home here in Delhi where fifteen girls and one of their younger brothers live. Because many of the children visit their families during school Holidays, we painted the faces of and made necklaces with the six remaining young ladies.

Through developing a trusting relationship with one prostituted woman in Delhi's RLD, this home slowly but surely received familial consent to house all of these beautiful children and adolescents. After personally experiencing the Girls Home in Delhi and the one in Kolkata, I've witnessed distinct yet similarly powerful expressions of Jesus' love for these children.

Day Thirty-Six

In Delhi!

In terms of culture, Delhi appears to sit midway between Kolkata and the States. Western culture infiltrates this city through a plethora of call centers which employ countless 20 and 30-somethings from all over India. Because of their comparatively substantial incomes, these young employees can afford western clothes and lifestyles. After a two hour plane ride, it already feels like I'm transitioning back to the U.S.!

Day Thirty-Five

We fly out to Delhi tomorrow morning where we'll be staying for 4 days. A friend asked us to write a paragraph reflecting on our time Kolkata. As I pack up and prepare to leave this city, I decided to send the paragraph I wrote along to you. Here it is: 

God handed me Kolkata like a valuable coin from His palm. The etchings on one side of the coin depict darkness and desperation. I remember the young girl, fists clenched about the handles of my bag, asking for our dinner with the weight of her body. On the other side, the carvings reflect hope and restoration. I remember the shining face of a young girl as she sings and dances in a sea of children to songs about Jesus during a time of peak activity in the Red Light District she calls home. During this time in Kolkata, I've seen how God uses Project Rescue to ardently rub His thumb against the long-standing desperation, smoothing it out and shining light into the darkness. 

Day Thirty-Four

As a group we shared Indian-style communion this evening. We ate Chapati (Indian flatbread) and drank grape juice from small clay cups (usually filled with chai -- yum!). In India, God has daily shown me how expansive his love is and that Jesus truly came to speak redemption into the lives of ALL people. What a gracious God we serve. 

Day Thirty-Three

Because every endeavor in India is a process, God is stretching my definition of patience.

If you want to go grocery shopping,  you will need to: (a) hail a taxi, (b) ride for 25 minutes, (c) shop, (d) carry your bags to hail another taxi, (e) sit for another 25 minute ride, (f) carry your groceries upstairs, and then (g) put them away. And, due to the warmth, you may need to (h) shower.

We went to our last worship service at the VU this morning and said good-bye to the women there. After lunch they wrapped us up in our saris and drew henna designs on our hands. Although both of these processes take time, they lead to beautiful outcomes. I'm reminded of the process of each of these women's lives and, much like the Girls Home, how God uses the VU to bless these women with new lives and fresh hopes.

  

Day Thirty-Two

Today we said farewell to the wonderful young ladies at the Girls Home.

As we sat on the floor and painted faces, I watched one of the youngest and liveliest girls smiling with a butterfly stretching across her face. Her name is Nila. When walking through the RLD last night, we met her mom and saw her previous home. Nila likely slept beneath her mother's bed in their tight, 3rd-floor room roughly the size of my bathroom. Outside the door she once walked through sat piles of rubbish (British lingo) and dirt-filmed walkways.

Now she sleeps in her own bed in a clean, spacious home. I thank Jesus for how He powerfully transforms our external environment as well as the inner workings of our souls. Will you praise God along with me for the work He's done in the lives of these special girls? 

Day Thirty-One

In the early evening, at a slightly more active time, our friend led us through Kolkata's main Red Light District for the second time. We walked down the middle of the street, between lines of women standing before tight rooms and thin alleyways. I can't help but ask myself, who am I in all of this? An observer? A friend?

A prostituted woman whom our friend knows led us up a dark stairwell and welcomed us into her home, a 10 ft. x 10 ft. room with dust hugging periwinkle walls stained with time. She conversed with our friend in Bengali as we sat on the bed and I visually toured her kitchen, bedroom, office, laundry room, living room, and garage without even moving a muscle. Our friend invited her to the VU's worship service this Friday but she politely declined. She shared with us that although she has difficulty sleeping, when she prays in Jesus' name she sleeps soundly. Will you pray along with me that she will be open to coming to the VU? 

Day Thirty

I woke up hive-free! Whoo hoo!

God used my cold, sinus infection, fever, and now hives to show me that He alone truly sustains us in our weakness. As I regularly see Jesus meeting the desperate physical needs and spiritual hungers in India, God continues to provide me with much strength in my body and soul as well.

Check out Ephesians 4: 14-19.

Day Twenty-Nine

I woke up yesterday with slightly swollen eyelids, stiff and (very) swollen hands, and itchy red splotches covering my chin, forearms, and hands. I figured mosquitoes attacked me while I was sleeping. But, this morning I woke up with more splotches, itchiness, and swelling covering my legs, hands, arms, and face/chin. I tried earnestly not to entertain thoughts of bed bugs and received much-appreciated help thoroughly inspecting my mattress (which was thankfully bug-free).

Turns out I have hives. I like to call them my Indian hives. They may be an allergic reaction or an aftereffect of the virus I had. Since I've only experienced hives once before after sun-poisoning, I'm leaning towards the latter option... 

Day Twenty-Eight

Being in Kolkata is like walking through a living kaleidoscope. We experience ever-changing scenes and colors, smells and car horns, shops and rickshaws, people and animals, rain and heat. Within the span of twenty seconds you may see an auto whizzing by on your right, a Muslim woman wearing the hijab head covering on your left, a child sleeping with a layer of cardboard and newspaper between her and the sidewalk in front of you, a man walking two trained monkeys on leashes, a dog sniffing through trash, and an elderly man boiling eggs over a small flame. Within the next twenty seconds, all these scenes change... 

Day Twenty-Seven

Potato, Potahto. Tomato, Tomahto. Kolkata, Calcutta.

Many of you are familiar with the pronunciation Calcutta instead of Kolkata. Brief history lesson: Kolkata was the city's original name prior to colonial rule. So, in 2001, the name returned to Kolkata to reflect Indian pronunciation and independence.

Also, our Indian friend told us that Kolkata means Dwelling of Kali. As the patron goddess of Kolkata, Hindus associate Kali with death, destruction, and time. In shrines throughout the city we see her depicted as a black statue holding skulls in her multiple arms as she crushes people beneath her feet. As I watch Hindus worship and burn incense to her statue, I long for them to understand the hope Jesus offers instead of destruction.

Day Twenty-Six

If yesterday was a taste of Monsoon season, today was a five course meal. After spending the morning at the VU, we heard an announcement that the women would leave early because of the approaching typhoon. Typhoon?! My understanding of typhoons begins and ends with Disney's Typhoon Lagoon water park. But, don't let the name startle you, it simply means a LOT of rain and street flooding, similar to a Category One Hurricane.

Typhoon Tips:

1. If you find yourself driving in four feet of water in our land rover, keep going. We learned from experience that you will not stall if you continue to drive.

2. Look out for bamboo poles or table tops sticking out of the water marking man holes. When the waters rise, people open sewage drains sporadically throughout the road and sidewalk and no one wants to inadvertently fall into one of those holes.

3. Seeing three water buffalo walking through the road and median is completely normal.

4. Bring a poncho. The back seat of a taxi may become a splash zone. 

Day Twenty-Five

In the intense summer heat, Kolkata natives look forward to the monsoon (rainy) season because of the cool(er) air it brings. Today I experienced my first real taste of monsoon season. Rain fell all day, somewhere between a sprinkle and a shower, and dampened everything. The drops simultaneously produced refreshing coolness and a constant, thin layer of mud beneath our feet. We decided we would opt for the drop in temperature over clean toes any day. 

Day Twenty-Four

Today at the VU the women in the card-making section invited me to create designs for the henna (mehndi) cards. I drew on the cards in pencil and one of the women will trace over the outline with henna-- such an honor for me!

If you ever plan to do your laundry using only a bucket, detergent, and your own two hands, I don't suggest mixing your old clothes with your new pair of black Indian pants. I knew my clothes were dirty, but not dirty enough to turn the water pitch black. Don't worry, I removed the pants and the remaining clothes survived. Also, as I rinsed the soap from each garment, all of the novelty of hand-washing my clothes faded away. It's hard work! 

Day Twenty-Three

I began an art project with four of the teenagers at the Girls Home yesterday. As we finished up today, this project reinforced two things: India is unpredictable and simple is best. I realized the project I envisioned was a bit too complex-- talking about metaphors and representing ourselves a something non-human (an animal, food, object, anything). How would you represent yourself?

Instead of drawing the ideas we discussed yesterday as I predicted, I realized that they simply wanted to draw. So, we put a water bottle in the middle of our circle and drew. I know this may be a stretch, but this reminded me of how Jesus enters into the lives of each one of these girls. I can be overwhelmed at times by the sheer magnitude of sex trafficking and the sex industry. But God reminded me that He unpredictably tends to each individual life in such personal ways-- so simple and beautiful.   

Day Twenty-Two

In India, we daily tickle our taste buds with the most delicious mangoes I've ever tasted. Everyone utilizes a different consumption method but I like to peel it like a banana and bite into it like an apple. Y-U-M. A mango a day keeps the doctor away. 

Day Twenty-One

The presence of Hinduism and Islam is tightly woven into the fabric of everyday Indian life. We regularly see clothing that denotes the wearer's faith and walk past small and large shrines to the goddess Kali on every block.

At church our pastor talked about what separates Jesus from the multitude of gurus and gods present in India. As an Indian himself, I found his perspective particularly interesting. He brought up many good points, but I'll focus only on one: Compared with other gurus, Jesus is the only one who experienced death and returned to shed light on both life and death. I encourage you to thoughtfully consider what this means, especially as endless spiritual options avail themselves to us all. 

Day Twenty

After a 1.5 hour car ride outside the city center, we set foot on the new land God gave Project Rescue. We walked through the construction site, now just a three-story framework of brick laid with cement that will eventually become the Girls Home and a residential Vocational Center. I imagined the scenes that will play out within and without those walls.

 Women sleeping peacefully.

Girls freely running and playing in the yard.

Refuge.

Renewal.

As the rain refreshed us outwardly with cool air, these potential scenes provided inward refreshment-- what beautiful possibilities! 

Day Nineteen

We joined the leaders and approximately 25 women at the VU for their weekly worship service again today. I had the honor of sharing with them from the book of Isaiah during the service. In Isaiah, God's people continually turn from Him and fall under attack from neighboring nations-- but God constantly points to Jesus and reminds them that He longs to free them from physical and spiritual captivity. Although I was nervous, I hope that in God's strength the words I shared spoke to these women.

This post would not be complete without a shout out to my wonderful BSF friends who I studied Isaiah with throughout last year-- love you ladies!

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Also-- An artist from our church, who studied in Boston, hosted a gallery exhibition of her work tonight. It was AMAZING. 

Day Eighteen

I'll set the stage for you: One day VBS (10 a.m.- 4 p.m.). Roughly 150 children total from the RLD and the Girls Home. No AC but fans (glorious fans).

Buses brought the children from the district and the Girls Home to our church. When they saw us, they extended their right hand for a clever Indian hand shake (don't worry, I'll teach you this hand shake some time) as smiles stretched across their faces. Throughout the songs, skits, and movie, the children were so attentive and well-behaved. They joyously listened, sang, and danced to the truth of God's love for them realized in Jesus. My team did a skit for Daniel in the Lion's Den (I was probably the sweatiest angel they've ever seen) and a memory verse.

A friend of mine mentioned that a day spent in a safe place with a good meal means so much to these children. Their light-filled faces confirmed the truth of that statement. 

Day Seventeen

Parents draw button-sized, black, filled-in circles on the forehead, temple, or chin of their babies and infants to ward off bad omens. Many parents attempt to strengthen the protection by putting eye liner around their children's eyes. They believe that if the child is attractive and receives complements, that harm will more likely befall the child. So, parents hope the marks will discourage positive feelings, and thus avoid negative outcomes. 

Day Sixteen

I began fighting a cold the first week I arrived here. During week two the cold began to win. During week three (this week) I could feel a sinus infection creeping in...

We went on an outing today with the girls from the Girls Home-- to the Victoria Memorial, lunch at a mall, and the planetarium. Despite eating lunch in an air-conditioned food court, my body began to conch out as heat radiated from every pore. Kolkata sunlight + sinus infection-induced fever = a new definition of warmth. I felt like a fire-breathing dragon.

The fever settled after good rest in my air-conditioned room. I'm continually reminded that air-conditioning and fans are a luxury in Kolkata. I've been told India is the most sleep-deprived nation partly because the people simply cannot get cool enough to sleep well. So, I thank God for the coolness of air-conditioning. And, I'm inspired by the people of India who live, work, bathe, and sleep in the heat without relief.

Also-- I got some antibiotics. 200 Rupees = ~$4.75 dollars. No prescription necessary. Wonderful. 

Day Fifteen

We went back to the Vocational Training Unit today and spent the afternoon with the women there. These women mostly come from the RLD but some come from a village 3 hours away by train (because of the long ride, they work at home and come in twice a week). Most of the women were prostituted and now work solely at the VU. One or two of them are still prostituted. Some of the younger girls, in their 20s, are vulnerable to enter into prostitution.

On any given day at the VU, women will be sewing, stitching, beading jewelry, working with paper, etc. These women create beautiful quilts, bags of all sizes, jewelry, coffee koozies and cards, just to name a few.

Although grown-up today, the young girl who made her debut taking photographs on the Born Into Brothels documentary sat across from us and gave us instructions for tracing stencils onto fabric. They use the fabric cut-outs to decorate cards with traditional Indian outfits. I feel honored to share a table with these women and encouraged by the true transformation Jesus continues to establish in their lives. 

Day Fourteen

On Sundays, The Times of India publishes the weekly matrimonial ads. Much like dating advertisements in the U.S., these ads describe the individual and their preferences. But, instead of looking for a boyfriend/girlfriend, they are seeking a spouse. Parents write ads for their children also.

Example of a Wanted Bride ad:
B’ful, slim, prof.qualified girl; for smart, h’some, indep boy 28/175/65 (I.I.T); MBA(ISB); Wkg in HSBC Bank in M’bai; Sal. 7 figures; Father Sr.IAS,GOI,Delhi; Pls include Bio, H'rscope, recent Photo of girl.


Example of a Wanted Groom ad: 
Ezhuva Parents invite proposals for their daughter 23 years, 5’3” doing P.G. Mass Communication and Journalism from Amity, Noida (New Delhi), Makayiram Nakshtram, good looking. Father Categoery-I Officer, Central Govt. seeks good alliance from well to do and settled boys.
Anyone interested?

Day Thirteen

We explored the city today and went to the house (more like a complex) of Rabindranath Tagore, a famous Bengali artist. When he was alive, the house and grounds surely bustled with activity. But now, his home is the most open, quiet space I’ve experienced in Kolkata.

In contrast, when we went into the RLD with Taya yesterday, she welcomed us into her 12’ x 12’ home and invited us to sit on the full-sized bed she shares with her 16 year-old son.  Despite their limited resources, all Indians view their guests as royalty—so Taya insisted on buying mango juice for the five of us. When I complemented her earrings, she proceeded to take them out of her ears and try to put them in mine. Thankfully, I was able to persuade her to keep them, but I’m continually amazed by how willing Indians are to share resources, time, and space.  Also, as we sat in her home sipping our mango treats, a goat walked in… only in India. J

Day Twelve

This was a day of firsts:  we visited the Vocational Unit (VU), walked through the main Red Light District (RLD), and went to the Evening Care Center (ECC).  I’ll focus on the latter two during this post.

After we attended their worship service and worked alongside the women at the VU, we drove to the main RLD in Kolkata where thousands of women are prostituted. Taya, a woman who used to be prostituted but now works at the VU, walked us through this district where she still lives. Varying in size, RLDs are specific areas throughout the city where women are prostituted.

We went into the RLD a little early, around 4:30 p.m., when the girls who do not meet their quota the previous night stand outside. Within the half and hour or so we spent at Taya’s home (more on this tomorrow), many more women filtered into the streets. As we walked out, I caught the eyes of a girl who looked just my age. Feeling a bit powerless, I smiled in an effort to tell her that I think of her as a human to be valued, not a machine to be used. 

Thirty yards from the edge of the RLD we entered into the Evening Care Center (ECC), a room teeming with smiling children and tangible hope. During the district’s peak prostitution time, from 5 p.m.- 8 p.m., the ECC welcomes in all of the children who live in the RLD. The center usually houses over 100 children during those three hours. This evening we met about 40 children (the rest are on holiday). They sang and danced to songs about Jesus. They acted like children. Their joy brought me much hope as I considered where they come from and where God has brought them. 

Day Eleven

We just returned from a one-night stay at the Girls Home. Below are two of the many things God taught me through one day with these beautiful girls:

No. 1— No Air Conditioning = Deep, deep gratitude for the things I have.

No. 2—Jesus truly makes all things new. As I sat on the marble floor and peeled mini-Vidalia onions, I reflected on Shrek’s wisdom (you must remember when he described his layered self as an onion?).  As I pulled off the onion’s skin bit by bit, I reflected on how Jesus gently peels away all that restricts us from being who God intended us to be. And, I saw before my eyes how Jesus redeemed the lives of these girls and how he continually peels away the pain of their past. 

Day Ten

Although silverware is usually an option here in India, I’ve been learning (rather hesitantly at first) to more fully appreciate the culture by using my hands to eat. Curry tastes better when not competing with the taste of a metal spoon, right? J

So, you’ll have to forgive me if I use my fingers instead of a fork to eat spaghetti when I return to the states. Not a pretty sight, huh? Don’t worry, if we go out to eat, I’ll order finger-friendly food for awhile. It will be all pizza, sandwiches, and tacos for me. 

Day Nine

Our ministry has three separate resource centers:

1—A Vocational Center for women.

2—A Girls Home for young girls and teenagers.

3— An Evening Care Center for children in the red-light district.

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Today we visited the Girls Home for the first time. Coming from one of Kolkata’s red-light districts, all of the girls at the home are children of prostituted women. Mothers (or caretakers) gave our ministry permission to care for these vulnerable girls because of relationships built. The girls live at the home and visit their families during holidays.

As I mentioned in a previous post, Indians often use familial language when referring to friends AND acquaintances. Before entering the home, we tucked away our shoes and heard smiling faces say, “Auntie, Auntie," and became family before we even crossed the threshold. 

Day Eight

Today we watched Born into Brothels, the popular American documentary filmed in one of Kolkata’s 22 red-light districts. I know many of you have seen it, but for those who have not, I’ll give you a synopsis: In the film, an English photographer portrays the darkest aspects of brothel life as she teaches the children of prostituted women how to compose, shoot, and edit photos.

We learned that although the documentary fostered awareness, it simultaneously brought much shame to the people of Kolkata. Our leaders used this documentary to remind us to be cautious when taking photos and sharing information about those we encounter.  

For me, the documentary ends with a weighty sense of hopelessness as many children stay in the brothel and/or leave the schools the photographer secured for them. BUT, amazingly, there IS hope. One of the children in the film (much older now) currently works at the Vocational Center that God created through our ministry. And, needless to say, she takes a lot of pictures. :) Jesus truly does bring hope in darkness.